Poultry Facts . . .

Inevitably, people ask questions whether they are experienced poultry keepers, beginners or simply interested. Below are a range of those poultry facts that we are asked most often. If you don't see or find what you are looking for, then please do get in touch either by email, phone – 01851 850776 - or by coming to see us.

Diseases
We are not vets or qualified to give definitive advice on veterinary matters. Information and advice we give is based on our experience. For qualified advice, you must contact your vet. Many of the common infections can be avoided with good husbandry. Keep litter clean, have plenty of ventilation (but not draughts) in the house, don't let the birds become bored. Look at your birds each day for tell-tale signs such as runny noses, wheeziness, frothy eyes, limping, runny bums, general posture and so on - common sense items that you might look for in children. However, with chickens, it is preferable to act straight away rather than leaving it 'to see what happens'. Check as well for lice, mites and other parasites.

Cockerels
You do not have to have a cockerel unless you want to breed from your hens. The hens will lay eggs anyway. Some people prefer not to have a cockerel if they are going to eat the eggs, but fertilized eggs taste just the same as unfertilized ones. You might see a minute mark in the fertilized ones. A cockerel will always be the top bird in the pecking order and some people feel that this helps to have a more settled flock. Cockerels certainly look after their girls, keeping an eye open for danger, settling disputes and even on occasions sacrificing themselves. Noisy cockerels can be a source of friction with neighbours. Some love to hear them, others object to the early morning (pre-dawn) wake-up call. If you have neighbours it is always advisable to talk with them and ask first. Some cockerels are louder than others. Cockerels defend their territory and hens, so introducing a new cockerel can always be a risk. There are ways to introduce extra cockerels that might reduce the aggravation, but the cocks will still need to sort out who is top bird. However, cockerels that are brought up together are less likely to fight seriously.

Food & Water
Food should always be available except at night. The birds will take what they require as they wish, so just make sure that there is sufficient feed in the feeder, topping it up as necessary. Chicks up to 8 weeks or so will be on chick crumbs because the smaller crumbs are easier for them to take in and the formulation is appropriate to their stage of development. Thereafter, they move on to grower's pellets which is a slightly different formulation, but in pellet form that they can easily cope with. Finally, at around 24 weeks or so, they go on to layers pellets or, if you prefer, to mash, though this is not as common as it once was and we do not usually sell it. The formulation is different again and suited to the birds' needs during their laying stage. The change from growers to layers (or chick crumbs to growers) is not time critical, so use up your grower’s first, mix it with some layers, or if a couple of weeks early, just get layers. There is no need to waste food on any change over. Do check the best before or use by dates when buying and don't leave it too long after they expire to use the food up as it will go stale in time. This is important if you only have a few birds - a 20Kg sack will last some time and a 5Kg bag might be more appropriate.

The birds should have a proprietary feed available as this provides all that is necessary for a balanced diet and they can live very well on nothing else. If you let them out, they will forage and get most that they require, and will most probably eat less of the proprietary feed. Grass will give you that wonderful rich yellow yolk. Grain (wheat) and corn (maize) should be used sparingly as an extra or mixed in with the pellets. They are not a complete diet in themselves, indeed, too much corn (maize) will put them out of lay and force a moult. Grain is useful for the birds to fill their crops before turning in for the night but not essential.

Grit can be provided for laying birds to replace the calcium and other materials taken from the bird in producing eggs. The more that birds forage, the less they will require, but from time to time, it may be helpful to have some grit available, either separately in a hopper or mixed with the food.

Water must always be available except overnight. As for changing it, check daily to see how much they are drinking, top up as required and change completely every three or four days.

Housing
Good housing for your birds is very important for their health, well-being and security. This guidance is for large fowl; bantams require about half as much.

1. Size: birds need an absolute minimum of 1 square foot each, preferably more. A 4' x 3' house is the absolute minimum for 12 birds but they will be playing sardines. Birds will also want somewhere to be when the weather is nasty, so more room will be wanted. When deciding about house size, think seriously about the maximum size you want your flock to be and buy a house with that number in mind. It will save you a lot of money, time and effort in the long run. Birds will roost closer in cold weather.

2. Ventilation: the more ventilation without draughts the better. Insufficient ventilation can lead to infections and a sickly flock. Ideally the ventilation should be higher than the perching birds.

3. Perches: allow at least 8" per bird. Square timber should have the top edges rounded so that the birds are comfortable. Height is also important - too high and the birds can bruise their feet when jumping down and get an infection called Bumble Foot. Guides suggest a maximum height of 2', but this will need to be less for heavier birds. To reduce the chances of birds roosting in and fouling nest boxes, the perches should be higher than the nest boxes. Obviously this is only for chickens as Ducks do not perch.

4. Access: do think of yourself as the chickens won't clean their own mess! How easy is it to get at the inside either to clean, reach sick, injured or dead birds or collect eggs that are not in the boxes?

5. The Site: houses might benefit from being on a solid base such as concrete or slabs. Open bottom types can be put on bricks or concrete blocks. This can protect the floor from being in permanent contact with wet ground and also discourage vermin. Which way does the prevailing wind come from? The birds won't appreciate it blowing in through the open pop hole.

Facts about Hatching Eggs
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website designed and maintained by Paul Johnson 2006-2007